March 16, 2014 --- Nathan and I took a night train from Kunming to Lijiang. I booked the train tickets ahead of time through TravelChinaGuide.com and picked them up at the train station once we arrived Kunming. We got soft sleepers, but they put us in different room, so we switched beds with another passenger without any problem.The train ride was jerky and people seemed to smoke even in the train cabins, so we didn't really get much sleep.
We arrived at Lijiang around 8 a.m. and took a bus straight to Lijiang Old Town where our hotel located. We were lost for an hour wandering in the Old Town looking for our hotel. Asking people for directions rather caused more confusion since each person told us to go the wrong way. Finally we got help from a tourist tout calling the hotel for direction and took us straight there with no charge.
Lijiang Qiwei Courtyard Inn is located right at the south gate of the Old Town. It would be super easy to find it if we entered the town from the south gate. It's a beautiful hotel with old Chinese style courtyard. The owners were very friendly and let us do the early check-in and helped us arrange our trips.
We wanted to go to Dragon Jade Snow Mountain, but it didn't work out because the tours usually leave at 8 a.m., and it would be really expensive to hire a private driver. As a result, Nathan and I just decided to visit Shuhe Old Town and then back to Lijiang Old Town.
I would say that the "Old Towns" are built for tourism. There are real old buildings, but the towns were just shops selling souvenirs and tour agencies. Nothing significant. Shuhe Old Town is more quiet and has more interesting scenery.
Lijiang Jade Spring Park is worth a visit. The entrance fee is 80 yuan per person, or if you already paid the protection fee for Lijiang Old Town (also 80 yuan), you can enter the park free. The view of Dragon Jade Snow Mountain behind the pond is breath-taking!
Transportation in Lijiang is very convenient. There are lots of buses, taxis, and small, blue vans that you can hire to go anywhere. A bus ride costs as low as 1 yuan per person. Make sure to have exact change.